COOKING

The Taming of the Thistle

by Tarla Fallgatter

Copyright © 1998 Tarla Fallgatter. All rights reserved.

Well known to the Greeks and Romans, artichokes were a rich man's vegetable, imaginatively prepared and often served at elaborate dinners and banquets to impress jaded diners. Today, artichokes are an integral part of the cuisines of Italy, France and Spain, and are certainly not restricted to special occasions. They are served in nearly every way imaginable, from simply boiled or steamed to fried, stuffed or mixed into complex pasta and meat or fish dishes-all fabulous.

Globe Artichokes

The globe artichoke as we know it was first recorded in Naples around 1400. From Italy it went to France and England where Henry VIII fancied it greatly, possibly because of its alleged virtues as an aphrodisiac. But its greatest use was in Italy, Spain and other Mediterranean and Near Eastern countries. The name itself is of Arabic origin, al-khurshuf, which became artichaut in French, carciofo in Italian, alcachofa in Spanish and artichoke in English.

Globe artichokes are the fleshy, leafy unopened flower buds of a three-to-five-foot formidable-looking plant that resembles a thistle in size. Though some varieties are tender enough to be eaten raw, as in Southern Europe, globe artichokes are generally cooked. While some varieties of artichoke produce only tiny buds, the large vegetable grown here actually produces several sizes on the same plant, depending on where the bud appears on the stem. The lower, more shaded, buds are generally smaller and may be marketed as "baby" artichokes, but they are just as mature as the large ones on the upper branches.

The ancients used the artichoke's earlier form, the cardoon, and consumed its tender stalks. In the second century after Christ it fetched the highest price on the vegetable markets of Rome, though Pliny the Elder was said to thoroughly dislike it.

During the great wave of European immigration, our forebears brought their beloved vegetable with them to the New World, where it has been grown commercially ever since, almost exclusively around Castroville, California, which bills itself as the "Artichoke Capital of the World". However, Italy is considered the world's largest grower and consumer of artichokes. Italians grow hundreds of different varieties, including the "little purple" and mazzaferrata of Tuscany, globular Roman cimaroli, the "sweetie" of Genoa, the "little violet" of Liguria, and on it goes. Spring markets throughout Italy are stacked with local inter- and other-regional artichokes. Only four varieties are available in the United States, and 98 percent of the commercial crop is the green globe artichoke.

Nutritional Information

Artichokes contain a substance called cynarin, which makes anything you eat with, or after, artichokes taste sweet. This same substance also makes wine taste metallic. For that reason, wine is often not served with artichoke dishes.

Artichokes are high in fiber, low in calories, rich in potassium, phosphorus, folic acid, zinc, vitamins A and C, and low in fat. They are supposedly good for arthritis, gout, diabetes, high blood pressure and, according to most herbal texts, considered an aphrodisiac.

Selection

When choosing an artichoke, rub it with your fingertips. Tender artichokes-those with less-developed chokes-will squeak when the leaves are rubbed together; tough ones with well-developed chokes will sound dry and hollow. Tender artichokes feel heavy and solid in the hand.

Buy the tightest buds you can, regardless of the size. Once the leaves begin to open, the vegetable can be dry and tough and may have lost much of its flavor. The stem should look moist and not shriveled or woody.

Peak season lasts from March to June, but artichokes are in the market all year. Count on one large artichoke per person, or two or three if buds are small.

Storage

Artichokes should be stored for only a day or two before cooking. Keep them in a plastic bag in the vegetable crisper and prepare as soon as possible.

Basic Preparation

Rinse raw artichokes well and remove any small, hard or discolored leaves. Cut the stem off even with the base so the choke can stand straight up in a pan. Cut about one third off the top to remove most of the spines. Rub all cut surfaces with half a lemon to prevent discoloring. If you like, use kitchen shears to cut the spiny tops off the remaining leaves, taking about 1/2" off each leaf and remembering to rub the cuts with lemon juice.

When hearts or bottoms are called for, the simplest way is to cook the whole artichoke by any one of the methods mentioned below and then, for hearts, cut off the tops and outer leaves or, for bottoms, carefully remove all the leaves and choke, trimming the base until round and evenly shaped. (Professional chefs often like to trim the bottoms before cooking, to make them all as uniform as possible.)

Boiled Artichokes

Place the prepared whole artichokes in a pan just large enough to hold all of the artichokes standing upright in one layer. Pour in enough water to come about one third of the way up the chokes, cover and simmer until you can insert a fork easily into the bottom of the largest choke, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the cooked artichokes upside down.

Spread the leaves open from the top and use a spoon to scrape out the fuzzy, inedible choke at the bottom. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Steamed Artichokes

Artichokes can be steamed in a steamer basket or a colander, covered, over simmering water until tender, 45 to 60 minutes, depending on the size.

Microwaved Artichokes

Artichokes tend to keep more of their green color when they are microwaved. Place the artichokes upside down in a single layer in a shallow dish. Cover loosely with microwave wrap and vent. For one artichoke, pour about 1/4C water into the dish and microwave on high for six to eight minutes, or a little longer if it is very large. For three to four artichokes, use 1/2C water and count 10 to 15 minutes (or more), depending on size. Let the chokes stand five minutes and drain before serving.

Eating an Artichoke

First-timers need not be intimidated when this globelike vegetable is set before them. The first thing to remember is that the base of each leaf is the edible portion-the rest of the leaf is too tough to eat. Begin by pulling the leaves off one at a time with your fingers. If there is a sauce (such as melted butter), dip the leaf's base into it, then draw the leaf through your teeth, scraping off the tender portion at the base. Discard the leaf (it is a good idea to have a "discard" plate) and pull off another one. When all the leaves have been removed, use a spoon to scoop out and discard the small, pale, purple-tinged leaves at the bottom and the fuzzy portion the choke). The remaining piece is the succulent, meaty artichoke bottom, which should be eaten with a fork.

Hot Artichoke Salad

Vinaigrette

1/4C lightly toasted walnuts

3 Tbsp. sherry wine vinegar

2 tsp. Meaux grainy mustard

6 Tbsp. imported toasted walnut oil

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Salad

1 bag organic greens

1 white Belgian endive spear, cut in julienne strips

1 red Belgian endive spear, cut in julienne strips

4 artichokes, cooked, drained, chokes removed, thinly sliced

3/4C toasted walnut halves

1/3C aged goat cheese, crumbled

1 bunch chives, cut in half

Combine vinaigrette ingredients together in a food processor and process until well blended.

Toss the artichoke slices with a little of the vinaigrette to coat. Mix the organic greens and endive spears together in a bowl and toss with vinaigrette to coat; add the artichokes and toss to combine. Add the walnut halves and goat cheese, more vinaigrette if necessary, and more salt and pepper to taste.

Divide among 6 plates and sprinkle with chives.

MAKES: 6 servings

Jerusalem Artichokes

Despite their name, these delicious little tubers bear no relationship whatsoever to artichokes, and rather than coming from the Middle East, they are native to North America.

Jerusalem artichokes are underground, gnarled, little, nubby, tan tubers produced by a relative of the sunflower. In Italy they are called girasole, literally meaning "turning toward the sun," as sunflowers do. Jerusalem may be an English-language corruption of the Italian. The artichoke part is easier to understand, as Jerusalem artichokes do have a somewhat nutty flavor recalling cooked artichokes.

Jerusalem artichokes have been cultivated for centuries by the Indians; Champlain reported seeing them in the gardens of the Cape Cod Indians in 1605. The plant was introduced to Europe around 1616 and it always has been cultivated much more extensively there than in this country. The French are especially partial to Jerusalem artichokes.

Some people call these tubers topinambours, perhaps for the Native American tribe of the same name that may have introduced them to the colonists. Frequently, you will see them on French menus and in French markets under this name. Lately, greengrocers have begun selling these vegetables as sunchokes, which is probably a much more appropriate name given their relationship to sunflowers.

Jerusalem artichokes can be eaten both raw and cooked. Raw, they are crisp and delicious on crudités platters, in salads and as part of an antipasto. They can also be cooked in almost any imaginable way: boiled, steamed, sautéed, stir-fried, baked, fried, braised or pureed.

In fact, anything you can do with a potato-with or without other ingredients-you can do to or with a Jerusalem artichoke. However, although they resemble potatoes, they cook faster and do not achieve the same kind of starchy consistency. In fact, Jerusalem artichokes will turn mushy in the blink of any eye, so monitor their cooking closely, test for tenderness often, and remove them from the heat as soon a metal skewer slides into the flesh easily.

Jerusalem artichokes are high in iron and natural fiber and are a good source of potassium.

Selection

Choose the plumpest tubers possible, with clear, beige skins. If you can find ones that are nearly smooth and not too knobby, they will be easier to prepare. They are often in the market all year long, though generally at their best during the winter: October through April.

No matter what the preparation, count on at least 1/4 pound per person.

Storage

Store unwashed Jerusalem artichokes in a closed plastic bag in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator. If they are very fresh, they should keep at least a week.

Preparation

Wash the artichokes thoroughly. Most cooks like to peel them, although this is not really necessary. After they are cooked, the skin slips right off, but they can be peeled with a vegetable peeler if you plan to eat them raw. Once they have been peeled or cut, Jerusalem artichokes turn an unpleasant gray color unless dropped quickly into acidulated water (1 or 2 Tablespoons lemon juice to 1 quart of water).

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

1 lb. Jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed clean and cut into 1/4" pieces

1 Jerusalem artichoke, cut in very thin slices and steamed until tender (garnish)

3 Tbsp. butter

2 leeks, white part only, coarsely chopped

3 carrots, coarsely chopped

1 bunch parsley, chopped

4C chicken stock

1C cream

salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 Tbsp. Italian parsley, finely chopped (garnish)

Melt the butter in a large pan, add the leeks, carrots, parsley and Jerusalem artichoke pieces, cover and cook over gentle heat for 20 minutes. Add 3C stock, cover and simmer 25 minutes more. When tender, remove from the heat and puree the soup in a food processor. Return the soup to the pan and add additional stock if the soup seems too thick. Add the cream and bring to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide among warm bowls and garnish each with a few of the steamed artichoke slices. Sprinkle each bowl with a little Italian parsley.

MAKES: 6 servings

Other Artichoke Resources
 

Official Artichoke IQ Test

Books About Artichokes

Artichoke Cafe in Albuquerque, New Mexico

Rack of Lamb Recipe Using Globe and Jerusalem Artichokes

Spinach-Artichoke Quiche

Artichoke Dip

Campanile Restaurant, at 624 S. La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles, serves a fabulous artichoke and walnut bread salad!

Artichoke Hearts

Artichoke hearts are often confused with artichoke bottoms. Hearts generally come from whole small artichokes whose tops have been cut off and outer leaves removed. They are usually blanched, and often found frozen or canned. These can be halved or quartered, and are used in antipasto, cooked dishes or salads. The choke part of these little artichokes is so tender it can be eaten right along with the rest.

Artichoke Bottoms

An artichoke bottom is the meaty part of the artichoke left after all the leaves and choke are removed. These are usually filled with something or cut up in salads; they are served hot or cold.

Tarla Fallgatter is a well-known Orange County caterer, chef, teacher, restaurant consultant and kitchen tool manufacturer. She trained at Paris' Cordon Bleu, La Varenne, and Ecole Lenotre cooking schools, and was the first foreign woman to cook in the kitchens of Maxim's. She has traveled to over 60 countries throughout the world, "sampling" the local cuisine. She markets her "Tarla" all-copper rolling pin in fine cookware shops.